Growing seeds

Bonnotte de Noirmoutier Returns to Shelves as Farmers Brace for Challenging Season After Heavy Winter Rains

The iconic early potato variety Bonnotte, prized for its delicate nutty flavour and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, has made its much-anticipated return to markets on the island of Noirmoutier. Harvesting began on March 17, but this season’s campaign has been marked by significant difficulties, as relentless winter rainfall disrupted planting across the island. Local retailers consider Bonnotte an indispensable product, with customers often travelling specifically to Noirmoutier to purchase it—drawn by its uniquely soft texture and distinctive taste, particularly when fried in a blend of butter and olive oil. However, producers like Rudy Bugeon report that excessive water prevented them from sowing their full planned acreage, resulting in a slightly reduced early crop. The island’s agricultural cooperative, which processes and packages around 11,000 tonnes of early potatoes annually, remains central to the supply chain, yet farmers are already bracing for lower yields during this early harvest period.

Beyond the immediate weather setbacks, climate change is intensifying pressure on Bonnotte growers. Shifting rainfall patterns and rising temperatures are making it increasingly difficult to plan optimal planting and harvesting schedules. Cooperative director Nicolas Paillet highlighted the extreme heatwaves of 2022 as a stark reminder that potatoes suffer under high temperatures, forcing earlier season endings. The Bonnotte variety, which originated in Normandy and was introduced to Noirmoutier in the 1920s–30s, thrived on the island’s light sandy soils, seaweed-rich growing conditions, and unique microclimate. Though nearly abandoned in the 1960s due to mechanisation, the variety was revived in 1995 with research support and has since regained its reputation as the “yellow gold” of Noirmoutier. Today, as unpredictable weather becomes the new normal, producers face the urgent challenge of safeguarding this cherished crop while maintaining the quality and volume that have made Bonnotte a symbol of French culinary heritage.

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