In the heart of central Washington lies Othello, a town of 8,700 people with a unique claim to fame – it’s the world’s foremost producer of frozen french fries, hash browns, and tater tots, churning out a staggering 1.5 billion pounds of potato products each year, which amounts to a whopping 15 percent of North American production. This seemingly idyllic hamlet has thrived, buoyed by its renewable energy resources and strategic location that allows its potato farms to thrive even as the planet’s climate grows more hostile. However, an impending water crisis threatens to undermine this agricultural haven, impacting not only the local economy but also the entire country’s food security.
Othello: An Agricultural Mecca
Othello’s transformation into an agricultural powerhouse is a testament to human ingenuity. In the 1950s, the Columbia Basin Project, a government-funded initiative, turned this arid desert region into a flourishing agricultural hub by harnessing the waters of the Snake and Columbia rivers, complemented by a network of groundwater wells. What once was sagebrush now boasts cherry and apple orchards and endless fields of potatoes, forming the backbone of the local economy.
But a twist of fate in the form of Mount St. Helens’ 1980 eruption showered the area with a six-inch layer of volcanic ash. Surprisingly, this disaster supercharged the soil chemically, propelling local farming to global heights. Othello’s potato farms can now yield twice as many tubers per acre as the renowned potato fields of Idaho, a testament to the unique conditions the region offers.
Othello: A Climate-Resilient Enclave
As climate change wreaks havoc across the world, Othello stands out as a beacon of resilience. Recent droughts in California led to a 30 percent drop in potato production, while the Midwest shifted its potato-growing seasons due to increasingly hot and dry weather. These changes negatively impacted potato quality as nights grew warmer, a critical factor in potato cultivation. Commercial potato fields typically thrive in the northern states of the U.S., where cooler nights prevail. Columbia Basin potato farmers, however, have managed to maintain high-quality crops even during the hottest summers.
The quality of their potatoes has not gone unnoticed, with McDonald’s singling out hash browns from the J.R. Simplot Othello plant as the best among its global producers. High-quality potatoes also require less energy to process, making Othello’s McCain Foods plant the most water-efficient facility of its kind. Recognizing the potential, processors have invested significantly in the region, with McCain unveiling a $300 million expansion in Othello as just the first step in a series of planned upgrades.
Water Woes Threaten Othello’s Prosperity
While Othello’s agricultural and economic fortunes have been on the rise, a severe water shortage looms on the horizon. The town’s rapid growth and increased potato processing have depleted local wells faster than anticipated. At the current rate, experts predict that these wells could run dry as soon as 2028. Originally intended as a temporary water source, these wells were meant to serve until the Columbia Basin Project’s completion. However, various factors, including environmental regulations and shifting priorities, led to delays in the project’s expansion.
The Columbia Basin Development League, tasked with funding the project’s expansion, warns of an impending economic and environmental catastrophe if the water issue remains unresolved. To mitigate this crisis, state officials have devised plans for pumps and pipelines to connect the Columbia Basin Project to the water-rich Columbia River to the north. Unlike the oversubscribed Colorado River, the Columbia still has untapped water resources, with only 3 percent of its flow currently utilized.
However, progress on this vital project has been sluggish. Despite securing over $125 million in federal and state grants, an estimated $400 million is required to complete the job. The league is now seeking assistance from federal, state, and local governments, with grants from the Agriculture Department as the next targeted source of funding.
The Domino Effect on Food Security
The stakes are high for Othello’s water predicament. If the project remains unfinished, not only will local potato cultivation be jeopardized, but the entire potato industry and Washington’s role as the second-largest producer of fruits and vegetables in the United States could be in peril. The consequences will reverberate beyond the town’s borders, impacting the nation’s food security.
Potato Processing: A Cornerstone of Othello’s Economy
The potato processing industry in Othello is a thriving ecosystem that employs over 700 residents, constituting 13 percent of the town’s adult population. Both McCain and J.R. Simplot, the industry giants, have played pivotal roles in elevating potato processing to one of Washington’s largest industries. Frozen french fries, in particular, have become the state’s second-most valuable agricultural export, with a 16 percent increase in value from the previous year.
Moreover, industry insiders anticipate rising potato demand in line with the world’s growing population. By 2050, McCain projects a 70 percent increase in production, a feat that would necessitate 67 percent more farmland and a 65 percent increase in water usage using current technology.
Both McCain and Simplot are members of the Columbia Basin Development League, actively involved in expanding the region’s water supply to secure their interests.
Farmers’ Dilemma and Potential Solutions
For local farmers like Adam Weber and Deven Johnson, who are sixth-generation residents of the Columbia Basin, the impending water shortage is a significant concern. A potential solution involves issuing municipal bonds financed by landowners in exchange for water rights to the new irrigation system. However, this would entail a substantial financial burden, with landowners required to pay $123 per acre of irrigation annually for 30 years, a 65 percent increase compared to current rates. Alternatively, farmers could choose to rely on depleted wells, but this option is vulnerable to potential shutdown by the state’s Department of Ecology.
Despite the financial challenges, some farmers are willing to bear the extra cost. The increased processing capacity driven by companies like McCain has eliminated restrictions on local farmers’ potato acreage, resulting in substantial farm expansions. This agricultural boom has led to higher wages, with average farm salaries in the region surpassing those in neighboring Idaho by 40 percent.
A Town Bound to Potatoes
Mayor Shawn Logan has been instrumental in securing funding for Othello’s infrastructure needs, thanks to the town’s symbiotic relationship with McCain and Simplot. McCain’s plant even adopted the slogan “We are Othello” in 2021, reflecting the deep connection between the town and the potato processing industry. The mayor envisions potential diversification into tomato processing and cold storage if the water crisis persists but recognizes the devastating impact of potato manufacturers leaving Othello.
The loss would not only be economic but also cultural, as potatoes have become an integral part of the town’s identity. Local quality manager Leo Garza even finds himself grading fries when dining out, and plant manager Zeke Rodriguez’s office prominently features a photo of J.R. Simplot, the company’s founder, symbolizing the profound influence of the potato industry on his life.
Conclusion and Call to Action
Othello, Washington, is at a crossroads, facing a daunting water crisis that threatens its prosperity and the broader food security of the United States. The solution lies in
securing the necessary funding to complete the Columbia Basin Project’s expansion, ensuring a reliable water supply for the next seven decades. Failure to act could lead to dire consequences for a town that has become synonymous with the potato, both economically and culturally.
The time for action is now, as the fate of Othello hangs in the balance. The challenges faced by this small town underscore the pressing need for sustainable water management and infrastructure development in the face of climate change, not only to safeguard local economies but also to protect the nation’s food security.
